climbs

off the wagon boulder 8C+

Off the Wagon

Off the Wagon Bio The now-iconic problem first popped up on the climbing communities radar after Dave Graham moved to Ticino in 2005, drawn to the region because of its never-ending variety of high-quality rock and endless climbing opportunities. “The pool of projects is massive, to me this is like the future realm” he proclaimed. …

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La Planta de Shiva 9b climb Spain

La Planta De Shiva

La Planta de Shiva Bio Villanueva del Rosario, an imposing crag sitting above the remote Spanish village is home to two 9b, endurance testing routes, Chilam Balam and La Planta de Shiva. La Planta de Shiva, although shorter than Chilam Balam, is still a renowned endurance-zapping test piece. The 45-meter route consists of powerful tufa …

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Byaku Dou boulder climb

Byaku Dou

The Byaku Dou Bio Byaku-Dou begins with a feet-first start into a traverse across a 40° roof overhang, with approximately 11 moves of 8B/V13 climbing, made up of technical moves on tricky, crimpy pockets. The second part of the problem, which intersects with the upper section of Bachelorette, a slightly easier 8A+/V12 with a redpoint …

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jour de chasse Fontainebleau

Jour de Chasse

Jour de Chasse Bio Sharing the opening four moves with Mécanique elèmentaire (8B+),  Jour de Chasse was claimed by Jan Hojer in December 2013 and takes the most obvious line directly up the centre of the boulder.  Like Mécanique elèmentaire, the problem starts on a crimp rail with a dynamic reach to a large sloppy …

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Monkey Wedding Rocklands

Monkey Wedding

Monkey Wedding Bio The notoriously difficult 14 move problem was put up by Fred Nicole in August 2002. At the time of his first ascent, Nicole awarded the problem the grade of 8B+/V14. Since then the route has had over a dozen repeats with the consensus being that the route is closer to the 8C/V15 …

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Vasil Vasil Czech Republic 5.15c

Vasil Vasil

Vasil Vasil Bio Standing at only 12m high, Vasil Vasil is considerably shorter than Ondra’s two prior 9b+, Change (55m) in Flatanger, Norway and La Dura Dura (40m) in Oliana, Catalonia. While the route might be shorter, it is by no means easier.  Hidden within this 22 move route are some extremely difficult sequences. The …

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Christian Core Gioia

Gioia

The Gioia Bio Gioia, Italian for Joy, came to fruition after Varazze local Marco Bagnasco became inspired by Fred Nicole’s iconic masterpiece Dreamtime. “I’m not sure exactly when, but someday I’ll find another difficult problem, perhaps not as hard as Dreamtime but just as beautiful” Bagnasco proclaimed to Core.  True to his word, Bagnasco discovered …

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