Jour de Chasse

DISCIPLINE: Bouldering
LOCATION: Fontainebleau
GRADE:  8C/V15
MOVES: 12
FIRST ASCENT: Jan Hojer

A 12-move problem consisting of large pockets, crimps and slopers, on the sandstone Opium boulder in Fontainebleau. 

Image by Vast Motion Pictures/MAMMUT

Jour de Chasse Bio

Sharing the opening four moves with Mécanique elèmentaire (8B+),  Jour de Chasse was claimed by Jan Hojer in December 2013 and takes the most obvious line directly up the centre of the boulder. 

Like Mécanique elèmentaire, the problem starts on a crimp rail with a dynamic reach to a large sloppy pocket. The climber then requires traversing out to another large pocket before reaching a sloper on the lip of the boulder, the crux of the problem requiring strong body tension to complete the sequence. It then tops out with a final four moves of sloping open hand features before topping out.

When Jan made the first ascent of the problem in 2013, he used a more dynamic beta for the first move, requiring him to stop his swing on the first sloping pocket with one arm. Since then, repeaters have found a significantly easier starting beta, opting to use a high left heel hook which removes the need for the powerful dynamic move to the pocket.

Since Hojer’s first ascent, the problem has received over a dozen repeats, becoming a Fontainebleau test-piece for the bouldering elite, with repeats from big-name boulders like Jimmy Webb, Nalle Hukkataival, and Giuliano Cameroni. 

Personal suggestions generally put the suggested grade in the 8B-8C area, with some climbers making light work of the problem, including Webb, who claimed an ascent after 15 minutes.

Ascents

Date of AscentClimberSuggested GradeNotes
2013-12-08Jan Hojer8C (Soft)Vimeo video
2014-01-21Guillaume Glairon-Mondet8C (Soft)Vimeo video
2014-03-02Iker Arroitajauregi8CVimeo video
2014-05-11Jimmy Webb8B+Featured in Out of Sight II
2015-02-24Ned Feehally8B+
2015-04-05Niccolò Ceria8B+ (Soft)Blog post
2016-02-03Kevin Lopata8CFacebook Post
2016-10-30James Noble8B+
2016-12-09Alban Levier8CFacebook video
2016-12-31Giuliano Cameroni8BSent in 2 attempts
2017-02-18Pascal Gagneux-
2017-03-16Nalle Hukkataival8B+/8CFacebook post
2017-05-07Luis Gerhardt8B+ (Soft)Vimeo video
2017-10-23Lucien Martinez8A+
2017-11-03Ryohei Kameyama8CYouTube Video
2017-12-12Nicolas Pelorson8A+/8BYouTube video
2019-05-19Rob Denayer8B+Facebook video
2020-01-07Thijs van DeldenYouTube video

Media

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