|Climber||Suggested Grade||Date of Ascent||Notes|
|Nalle Hukkataival||8C/V15||21st Nov 2012||FA of the stand start – Blog Post|
|Jan Hojer||8B+/V14||23rd Nov 2012||Stand Start. Video|
|Jimmy Webb||8B+/V14||21st Mar 2013||Stand Start|
|Niccolò Ceria||8B+/V14||2nd Apr 2014||Stand Start – Vimeo video|
|Luca Rinaldi||8B+/V14||1st Feb 2016||Stand Start – Vimeo video|
|Giuliano Cameroni||8B/V13 Hard||28th Apr 2017||Stand Start – Facebook video|
|Gabriele Moroni||8B+/V14||18th Dec 2018||Stand Start – YouTube video|
|Shawn Raboutou||8C+/V16||27th Nov 2018||FA Sit Start. YouTube video|
|Daniel Woods||8B+/V14||22nd April 2019||Stand Start – Instagram Post|
|Ryuichi Murai||8B+/V14||29th Nov 2019||Stand Start – Instagram Post|
|Jimmy Webb||8C+/V16||27th Feb 2020||Sit Start, second ascent – YouTube video|
|Daniel Woods||8C+/V16||9th March 2020||Sit Start, third ascent – Instagram Post|
|Giuliano Cameroni||8C+/V16||26th May 2021||Giuliano moved the wagon to do the ground stand start but uses the sit start holds. No grade change proposed – YouTube Video|
|Simon Lorenzi||8C+/V16||24th Nov 2021||Sit Start – In his Instagram post Simon suggests on the Crux hold “small christal has gone and the left side of the hold is now a bit deeper.”|
|Nathan Phillips||8B+/V14||14th Dec 2021||Stand Start – Instagram Post|
|Sergii Topishko||8C/8C+||26th Dec 2021||Sit Start. On YouTube Segii suggest the breaking of the crux hold makes the boulder more like 8C|
|Yannick Flohé||8C+/V16||1st Jan 2022||Sit Start – Instagram Post|
|Alberto Ginés López||8B+/V14||10th Jan 2023||Stand Start, send on second session – Instagram Post|
|Niccolò Ceria||8C+/V16||3rd Feb 2023||Sit Start – Instagram Post|
|Florian Wientjes||8C+/V16||18th Feb 2023||Sit Start – Instagram Post|
|Francesco Bernadino||8C+/V16||17th May 2023||His first V16 at the age of 19! – YouTube Video|
The now-iconic problem first popped up on the climbing community’s radar after Dave Graham moved to Ticino in 2005, drawn to the region because of its never-ending variety of high-quality rock and endless climbing opportunities.
“The pool of projects is massive, to me this is like the future realm” he proclaimed. Graham’s early attempts at various projects in the Bavona valley were featured in the Sender’s Film documentary Dosage III. The film included a short clip of Graham working a 50° overhanging boulder beginning, somewhat artificially, with a standing start on an old trailer beside the boulder.
A year later, the Sender’s Film crew returned to Ticino to shoot Dosage IV, which this time included footage of Chris Sharma’s initial attempts at the same boulder problem. The documentary showed Sharma beginning to decipher the powerful beta, which proved to be the key to unlocking the powerful crux sequence. The crux move, the second move of the stand start, involves a dead point campus crossover to a shallow right-hand pocket.
From here, the problem traverses along the horizontal crack to the right-hand arête into an easier-going outro sequence.
Despite being unable to claim an early ascent, Sharma’s beta paved the way for future ascents of the problem boulder, with most of the climbers who went to claim an ascent opting to use his campus crossover beta for the crux move.
Sharma’s superstar status as a climbing icon significantly increased the profile of the “wagon project”, with a flurry of world-class bouldering elite pilgrimage to Ticino to test themselves against the powerful problem.
Wall of Glory
First Ascent: Nalle Hukkataival
22nd Nov 2012
Second Ascent: Jan Hojer
23rd Nov 2012
First Ascent (Low Start): Shawn Raboutou
27th Nov 2018
Even to this day, Off the Wagon remains one of the most iconic boulder problems and a test piece for the bouldering elite.
In early 2022 various climbers, including Giuliano Cameroni and Yannick Flohe confirmed that a small crystal is missing on the hold before the crux, making it possible to hold a full-crimp position on the hold, making the crux sequence slightly easier. Sergei Topishko suggested that this may have affected the grade of the route, suggesting the new grade might be closer to 8C/V15.
If you plan on making a pilgrimage to see this iconic boulder for yourself, then it’s important to know that there are some access issues for much of the year. From April through to October the boulder is inaccessible due to the landowner wanting to conserve the grass for his cows.