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Toupie Carnivore Assis

A short boulder in the Fontainebleau sector of Rocher Saint-Germain East developed and first climbed Guillaume Glairon-Mondet in 2014.








10 Moves

First Ascent

Guillaume Glairon-Mondet

Date of FA


Toupie Carnivore Assis

Ascent Log

ClimberSuggested GradeDate of AscentNotes
Guillaume Glairon-Mondet8C/V152nd Mar 2014Blog post
Nalle Hukkataival8B+/V1413th Mar 20142 sessions. Featured in Out of Sight II
Griffin Whiteside8B+/8C – V14/V1513th Mar 2015Vimeo video
Michael Leweson8B+/V1411th Oct 20156 days to complete
Jan Hojer8B+/V147th Dec 2015
Jimmy Webb8B+/V146th Feb 2016YouTube video

Climb Profile

The Route

La Toupie Carnivore, or Carnivorous Spinning Top in Englishcan be done as both a sit (8B+) and stand start variation (8B). The sit start begins with an undercling match, up into a left-hand crimp. The next move, the crux of the problem, involves a dynamic right-hand slap onto the sloping headwall, requiring perfect precision for maximum purchase. From here, the climber must negotiate a series of poor slopers to top out the problem.

Wall of Glory

First Ascent: Guillaume Glairon-Mondet

2nd March 2014

La Toupie Carnivore Assis became a project for Guillaume in early 2014. While the balance between delicate placements and powerful compressions suited his style, the project presented a challenge for the Frenchman. 

Guillaume had the majority of the beta nailed down pretty early on, only taking two or three sessions to work the beta for the sit start and the top section. The crux sequence, however, didn’t come as easily. He spent eight sessions in total working the dyno, attempting the move between 30 – 50 in each session. 

Out of the hundreds of attempts at this move, Guillaume eventually stuck the dyno and went on to top out the problem, making the first attempt of the stand start. Knowing the move was now possible, after several more attempts at the sit start, the French native eventually claimed the first ascent of La Toupie Carnivore Assis on the second of March 2014 and awarded the route the grade of 8C/V15.

Toupie Carnivore Assis Fontainebleau
© IG/GuillaumeGlairon-Mondet

Second Ascent: Nalle Hukkataival

13th March 2014

The opening of the problem coincided with the same week of Nalle Hukkataival’s planned trip to Font. When he heard of Font’s latest V15, he was eager to try Glairon-Mondet’s new problem. 

On his first session on the boulder, Nalle made quick work of the stand start, opting to use a different beta than Guillaume, choosing to use a mantle instead of the crimps on the other side of the arête. He also attempted the sit start, although wasn’t able to bag the repeat on that session. 

A few days later the Finn returned to the problem and after a handful of attempts, managed to claim the first repeat. Although he thought the grade of 8B+ was more suitable, Nalle stated the problem was one of his favorite boulders in Fontainebleau.

Toupie Carnivore assis boulder
Nalle Hukkataival / ©Neil Hart

Third Ascent: Griffin Whiteside

13th March 2015

The following year La Toupie Carnivore Assis received three repeats by Griffin Whiteside, Michael Leweson and Jan Hojer. All three climbers were in agreement that the problem was in the 8B+ range, although Whiteside thought it was between 8B+/8C, stating that he had difficulties with the mantle. 

Video Library


Meet Angel, a former desk-jockey turned global wanderer. After catching a severe case of the climbing (and travel) bug, she's now a world traveller, living the dirtbag dream. Highballs? Too mainstream for her taste. She's all about the thrills of lowballs, where the real action happens. Nowadays, you'll find her in Thailand, either precariously balanced on a granite slab or trading stories with Nemo and his buddies underwater!

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