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Alex Puccio

Alex Puccio’s status as one of the world’s top female boulderers is undisputed. Introduced to the sport at a young age, the Texan quickly developed a powerful and unique style that allowed her to repeat some of the toughest boulders in record time. Her impressive list of achievements includes more than twenty V12/8A+ boulder problems by 2014 – a remarkable accomplishment for any climber.

NATIONALITY

United States

Date Of Birth

15/06/1989

Speciality

Bouldering

Hardest Sport

-

Hardest Boulder

V14/8B+

Hardest Trad

-

Alex Puccio

Ascent Log

ClimbTypeSuggested GradeDate of AscentNotes
JadeBoulderV14/8B+3rd Aug 2014Alex made the FA of Jade. Video
HeritageBoulderV14/8B+22nd Apr 2019Alex sent Heritage on her last day Instagram Post
New Base LineBoulderV14/8B+5th Sep 2017Video
The Penrose StepBoulderV14/8B+3rd Apr 2018Video
HailstormBoulderV14/8B+Mar 2022Instagram Post
The Wheel of ChaosBoulderV14/8B+Feb 2015This was Alex’s second V14 after Jade Video
Tigris SDSBoulderV14/8B+Jun 2022Alex did the stand start a few days before and managed to send the sit start first go Instagram Post
We Can Build YouBoulderV14/8B+12th Sep 2022She climbed this boulder twice back to back. Instagram Post
Black LungBoulderV13/8B25th Nov 2014Video
The SwarmBoulderV13/8B24th Feb 2015Alex sent The Swarm in her first day on the boulder Instagram Post
SlashfaceBoulderV13/8BFeb 2016Video
Terre de SienneBoulderV13/8B20th Dec 2016This was her first V13 after her spinal surgery. Instagram Post
Evil BackwardsBoulderV13/8B28th Jun 2017Instagram Post
SteppenwolfBoulderV13/8BMay 2022Sent it on her first go despite wet conditions. Instagram Post
The ButtermilkerBoulderV13/8BMar 2023Instagram Post

Kit Bag

Climbing Career

Learning the Ropes & Comp Climbing

Puccio’s climbing journey began in 2002 when she was only thirteen years old. Together with her mother, she discovered her passion for climbing, and it wasn’t long before she started dominating the competitive scene. In 2006, she participated in the U.S. Bouldering Championships for the first time. She came in as a rookie and left a champion after winning her first-ever Bouldering Championship. This was just the beginning of her impressive winning streak. She went on to win the championship in 2007, 2008, 2010, 2011, 2012, and 2013.

Alex Puccio competition climbing
Alex in her early comp days ©AndrewMagill

Puccio didn’t stop there. She also competed in the World Cup bouldering climbing in 2008, 2009, and 2010, where she finished sixth, fourth, and sixth, respectively. In 2011, she climbed all the way up to the podium, achieving five top-three finishes. She was a regular fixture on the IFSC Bouldering World Cup circuit and always made it to the finals.

Alex Puccio on podium winning gold
Alex winning one of her many gold medals! ©RoapCoaching

With the amount of bouldering participations over the years, Alex is America’s most accomplished female bouldering competitor. She won the ABS National Championship eleven times and has earned numerous medals in the Bouldering World Cup events, including gold medals at the 2009 Vail World Cup and the 2018 Vail World Cup. In 2014, she earned a gold medal at the Arco Rockmaster event and a silver medal in the World Championships for bouldering.

Outdoor Bouldering

Despite being known for her raw power, Puccio has always found time to balance her love for outdoor climbing and indoor competitions. Her competitive streak is nothing short of impressive, however, her heart has always belonged to outdoor climbing. In 2018 she skipped the last two World Cups to focus exclusively on climbing outside.

Alex Puccio climbing outdoors
©CameronMaier

Her passion for outdoor climbing was further demonstrated by her decision not to attempt to qualify for the historic first-ever Olympic Games in Tokyo 2020, despite her impressive record in competitions. 
In an interview with Planet Mountain, she stated:

‘’I came to realize I was only trying to make the push for the Olympics because competitions were a huge part of my life for so many years and now a new level has opened up. I have a massive love for bouldering and bouldering competitions, but I don’t have a love for Speed climbing. In addition, I realized how much I love climbing outside, and that if I trained for the games I would have to give up climbing outside for some time.’’

A String of Injuries

Unfortunately, Puccio has also experienced a string of injuries throughout her career, likely due to the intense training regimen she demands of herself. In 2015, she suffered a severe knee injury that could have resulted in months of inactivity. Despite the six-month inactivity prediction, she was back on the rock, climbing V13 by October 2015, proving her resilience. 

Alex Puccio climbing with injury
Even an injured foot doesn’t stop Alex from doing what she loves the most ©AlexPuccio

In 2016, Puccio underwent spinal fusion surgery after doctors discovered a herniated disk. Despite feeling shooting pain and weakness in her arms, she climbed her way into the finals once again in the 2016 Bouldering World Cup in Vail.

More recently, she sprained her ankle in May 2023 while taking her pup out for a walk. This meant she had to take yet another break from climbing, but in true Puccio style, she’s already back on the wall a month and a half later sending some ‘easy’ V10s.

Despite all of her injuries and setbacks, she has ascended over two dozen boulders graded V12/8A+, a staggering 30 V13/8B and eight V14/8B+ boulder problems.

Climber Fit App & Roap Coaching

Want to train just like Alex? To help others achieve their climbing potential, Alex has introduced two different training programs: the Climbing Fit app and Roap Coaching.

Climbing Fit is a training app designed for climbers of all levels, from beginners to advanced athletes. The app provides a range of workouts, challenges, and training plans tailored to help climbers build strength, endurance, and technique. With a focus on bouldering and sport climbing, Climbing Fit offers a variety of exercises that can be done both at home and in the gym. 

Roap Coaching, is a more personalized coaching program for climbers who want to take their training to the next level, with 1 to 1 coaching by Alex herself and her partner, Robin O’Leary

Notable Ascents

Where do I even begin with Alex’s noteworthy ascents? Just to give you some perspective, Alex has conquered an astonishing 50 (approx) of the hardest boulders in the world. No other female boulderer has ever come close to that record.  

Alex Puccio Heritage V14
Alex sending Heritage V14 ©westmountainmedia

Some of her most noteworthy ascents is the first female ascent of Jade (V14), in the Rocky Mountain National Park. More recently, in 2019, she sent her eighth V14, Heritage, in Switzerland’s Val Bavona. She spent a total of 7 days on the boulder and got it on her first try that day.

FAQs

Video Library

Angel

Meet Angel, a former desk-jockey turned global wanderer. After catching a severe case of the climbing (and travel) bug, she's now a world traveller, living the dirtbag dream. Highballs? Too mainstream for her taste. She's all about the thrills of lowballs, where the real action happens. Nowadays, you'll find her in Thailand, either precariously balanced on a granite slab or trading stories with Nemo and his buddies underwater!

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