Ascent Log
Climb | Type | Suggested Grade | Date of Ascent | Notes |
---|---|---|---|---|
Jade | Boulder | V14/8B+ | 3rd Aug 2014 | Alex made the FA of Jade. Video |
Heritage | Boulder | V14/8B+ | 22nd Apr 2019 | Alex sent Heritage on her last day Instagram Post |
New Base Line | Boulder | V14/8B+ | 5th Sep 2017 | Video |
The Penrose Step | Boulder | V14/8B+ | 3rd Apr 2018 | Video |
Hailstorm | Boulder | V14/8B+ | Mar 2022 | Instagram Post |
The Wheel of Chaos | Boulder | V14/8B+ | Feb 2015 | This was Alex’s second V14 after Jade Video |
Tigris SDS | Boulder | V14/8B+ | Jun 2022 | Alex did the stand start a few days before and managed to send the sit start first go Instagram Post |
We Can Build You | Boulder | V14/8B+ | 12th Sep 2022 | She climbed this boulder twice back to back. Instagram Post |
Black Lung | Boulder | V13/8B | 25th Nov 2014 | Video |
The Swarm | Boulder | V13/8B | 24th Feb 2015 | Alex sent The Swarm in her first day on the boulder Instagram Post |
Slashface | Boulder | V13/8B | Feb 2016 | Video |
Terre de Sienne | Boulder | V13/8B | 20th Dec 2016 | This was her first V13 after her spinal surgery. Instagram Post |
Evil Backwards | Boulder | V13/8B | 28th Jun 2017 | Instagram Post |
Steppenwolf | Boulder | V13/8B | May 2022 | Sent it on her first go despite wet conditions. Instagram Post |
The Buttermilker | Boulder | V13/8B | Mar 2023 | Instagram Post |
Kit Bag
Climbing Career
Learning the Ropes & Comp Climbing
Puccio’s climbing journey began in 2002 when she was only thirteen years old. Together with her mother, she discovered her passion for climbing, and it wasn’t long before she started dominating the competitive scene. In 2006, she participated in the U.S. Bouldering Championships for the first time. She came in as a rookie and left a champion after winning her first-ever Bouldering Championship. This was just the beginning of her impressive winning streak. She went on to win the championship in 2007, 2008, 2010, 2011, 2012, and 2013.
Puccio didn’t stop there. She also competed in the World Cup bouldering climbing in 2008, 2009, and 2010, where she finished sixth, fourth, and sixth, respectively. In 2011, she climbed all the way up to the podium, achieving five top-three finishes. She was a regular fixture on the IFSC Bouldering World Cup circuit and always made it to the finals.
With the amount of bouldering participations over the years, Alex is America’s most accomplished female bouldering competitor. She won the ABS National Championship eleven times and has earned numerous medals in the Bouldering World Cup events, including gold medals at the 2009 Vail World Cup and the 2018 Vail World Cup. In 2014, she earned a gold medal at the Arco Rockmaster event and a silver medal in the World Championships for bouldering.
Outdoor Bouldering
Despite being known for her raw power, Puccio has always found time to balance her love for outdoor climbing and indoor competitions. Her competitive streak is nothing short of impressive, however, her heart has always belonged to outdoor climbing. In 2018 she skipped the last two World Cups to focus exclusively on climbing outside.
Her passion for outdoor climbing was further demonstrated by her decision not to attempt to qualify for the historic first-ever Olympic Games in Tokyo 2020, despite her impressive record in competitions.
In an interview with Planet Mountain, she stated:
‘’I came to realize I was only trying to make the push for the Olympics because competitions were a huge part of my life for so many years and now a new level has opened up. I have a massive love for bouldering and bouldering competitions, but I don’t have a love for Speed climbing. In addition, I realized how much I love climbing outside, and that if I trained for the games I would have to give up climbing outside for some time.’’
A String of Injuries
Unfortunately, Puccio has also experienced a string of injuries throughout her career, likely due to the intense training regimen she demands of herself. In 2015, she suffered a severe knee injury that could have resulted in months of inactivity. Despite the six-month inactivity prediction, she was back on the rock, climbing V13 by October 2015, proving her resilience.
In 2016, Puccio underwent spinal fusion surgery after doctors discovered a herniated disk. Despite feeling shooting pain and weakness in her arms, she climbed her way into the finals once again in the 2016 Bouldering World Cup in Vail.
More recently, she sprained her ankle in May 2023 while taking her pup out for a walk. This meant she had to take yet another break from climbing, but in true Puccio style, she’s already back on the wall a month and a half later sending some ‘easy’ V10s.
Despite all of her injuries and setbacks, she has ascended over two dozen boulders graded V12/8A+, a staggering 30 V13/8B and eight V14/8B+ boulder problems.
Climber Fit App & Roap Coaching
Want to train just like Alex? To help others achieve their climbing potential, Alex has introduced two different training programs: the Climbing Fit app and Roap Coaching.
Climbing Fit is a training app designed for climbers of all levels, from beginners to advanced athletes. The app provides a range of workouts, challenges, and training plans tailored to help climbers build strength, endurance, and technique. With a focus on bouldering and sport climbing, Climbing Fit offers a variety of exercises that can be done both at home and in the gym.
Roap Coaching, is a more personalized coaching program for climbers who want to take their training to the next level, with 1 to 1 coaching by Alex herself and her partner, Robin O’Leary.
Notable Ascents
Where do I even begin with Alex’s noteworthy ascents? Just to give you some perspective, Alex has conquered an astonishing 50 (approx) of the hardest boulders in the world. No other female boulderer has ever come close to that record.
Some of her most noteworthy ascents is the first female ascent of Jade (V14), in the Rocky Mountain National Park. More recently, in 2019, she sent her eighth V14, Heritage, in Switzerland’s Val Bavona. She spent a total of 7 days on the boulder and got it on her first try that day.