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Daniel Woods

Woods is one of the most accomplished bouldering specialists ever, on both rock and plastic. He has over 25 V15+ ascents to his name, more than any other climber in history, and is also one of the few people to claim an ascent of a V17 boulder.

NATIONALITY

United States

Date Of Birth

01/08/1989

Speciality

Bouldering

Hardest Sport

9b/5.15b

Hardest Boulder

V17/9A

Hardest Trad

-

Daniel Woods

Ascent Log

ClimbTypeSuggested GradeDate of AscentNotes
Return of the SleepwalkerBoulder9A/V1730th Mar 2021Instagram Post Video
Hypnotized MindsBoulder8C+/V1621st Oct 2010
The Ice Knife SDSBoulder8C+/V162nd Nov 2013
The ProcessBoulder8C+/V1618th Jan 2015Video
Creature from the Black LagoonBoulder8C+/V1627th Sep 2016Instagram Post
Box TherapyBoulder8C+/V1629th Oct 2018Instagram Post
SleepwalkerBoulder8C+/V1621st Jan 2019Instagram Post
Off the Wagon LowBoulder8C+/V169th Mar 2020Instagram Post
Grand IllusionBoulder8C+/V167th Jun 2021Instagram Post
InsomniacBoulder8C+/V161st Sep 2022Instagram Post and Video
AdrenalineBoulder8C+/V1612th Feb 2024FA, proposed a soft V16 grade Instagram Post
The GameBoulder8C/V1510th Feb 2010Daniel initially suggested 8C+ but later revised this to 8C.
La Force TranquilleBoulder8C/V1515th Oct 2011
White NoiseBoulder8C/V1518th Sep 2012
The NestBoulder8C/V1518th Dec 2013Video
Noise vs. BeautyBoulder8C/V1518th Jun 2015
Everything GneissBoulder8C/V1523rd Apr 2016
Defying GravityBoulder8C/V152017Instagram Post
Direct HitBoulder8C/V15Jun 2019Instagram Post
4-LowBoulder8C/V15Mar 2020Instagram Post
Death StarBoulder8C/V15Apr 2020Instagram Post
DicktopiaBoulder8C/V153rd Sep 2020Instagram Post
DesperanzaBoulder8C/V15
TerremerBoulder8C/V1530th Jan 2010
Monkey WeddingBoulder8C/V1513th Aug 2012Video
Hydrangea (Pre 2016 Break)Boulder8C/V1514th Feb 2013
The Bridge of AshesBoulder8C/V1510th Mar 2013
DeliriumBoulder8C/V1518th Sep 2013
Lucid DreamingBoulder8C/V1528th Jan 2014Video
The Finnish LineBoulder8C/V1530th Jun 2018Instagram Post
Pirate’s CodeBoulder8C/V15Aug 2018Instagram Post
Black Eagle AssisBoulder8C/V1516th Aug 2018Instagram Post
SquozeBoulder8C/V152019-2020Instagram Post
La RusticaBoulder8C/V156th May 2019Instagram Post
PrimitivoBoulder8C/V15Mar 2020Instagram Post
TrafficBoulder8C/V1511th May 2020
PegasusBoulder8C/V153rd Apr 2021Video
The MultiverseBoulder8C/V15Nov 2022Instagram Post
Witness the FitnessBoulder8C/V15Video
EchaleBoulder8B+/V142004
JadeBoulder8B+/V1419th Jun 2007Video
SkyBoulder8B+/V142008
TronBoulder8B+/V1413th Mar 2017Instagram Post
Mystic StylezBoulder8B+/V14
EsperanzaBoulder8B+/V142005
Practice of the WildBoulder8B+/V1416th Apr 2011
EntlingeBoulder8B+/V1428th Nov 2011UKC Post
Oliphant’s DawnBoulder8B+/V148th Aug 2012
The Ice KnifeBoulder8B+/V1419th May 2013
The Wheel of WolvoBoulder8B+/V149th Sep 2013
Meadowlark LemonBoulder8B+/V145th Dec 2013Daniel suggested a soft 8B+
Bhai BonBoulder8B+/V142018
SkadooshBoulder8B+/V1418th Aug 2018Instagram Post
Off the WagonBoulder8B+/V14Apr 2019Instagram Post
The KingdomBoulder8B+/V1416th Apr 2019Instagram Post
Compass NorthBoulder8B+/V141st Oct 2022Instagram Post
Evil BackwardsBoulder8B/V1328th Jun 2010
Terre de SienneBoulder8B/V135th Jan 2007
Good HopeBoulder8B/V131st Aug 2015
VersaceBoulder8B/V1319th May 2020

Kit Bag

Climbing Career

Learning the Ropes

Daniel Woods first started climbing as a 5-year-old child with his father on a trip to Texas’ Mineral Wells State Park. Although he started to dabble with indoor gyms in Dallas, it was after his family moved from their native Texas to Longmont, Colorado that Woods joined the Boulder Rock Club’s junior climbing team. 

The team was coached by Justin Sjong and Jimmie Redo, two accomplished climbers and route-setters who also have an impressive rap sheet of transforming young climbers into professional athletes, with former students including Woods and Emily Harrington.

Competition Climbing

Just two years later, at 16 years old, Woods won the American Bouldering Series in 2005. Over the next decade, he would go on to win 8 Bouldering National Championships and 2 Lead National Championships in 2006 and 2013. These wins made Woods one of the most successful American boulderers in history, holding a national record that can only be trumped by Alex Puccio.  

On the international stage, Woods competed for over a decade at over 18 IFSC-recognized competitions and became the first American to win a Boulder World Cup after taking gold in Vail in June 2010. Wood’s last international competition was in 2017, with a 45th-place finish in the Meiringen, Switzerland World Cup.

©Andrew Magill

Notable Ascents

Throughout his decade long competition career, Woods was also making a name for himself as a world-class crusher with some repeats of notoriously hard boulder problems. At the age of 14, he made a repeat of Fuck You Finger and claimed his first V11 boulder (8A). A year later, he made the ascent of Echale and awarded it the grade of V14 (8B+). In June 2007, he made the first ascent of Jade, a project in the Rocky National Park that he had been working on with Dave Graham for several years. He awarded the problem the grade of V15, making it the hardest ascent of his career at the time, although it has since been downgraded to a V14.

Daniel on the crux of Off The Wagon – ©MaryMeck

In 2008, Woods moved to Innsbruck, in search of new challenges and to create a climbing documentary Welcome to the Hood with fellow climbers Paul Robinson, Guntram Jörg, and Anthony Gullsten. It was in May of that year he made the first ascent of In Search of Time Lost, an ascent that finally marked his ascension into the V15 realm. 

The next big breakthrough for Woods came in 2010, a year that not only saw him top out four V15 boulders but he also made an ascent of Hypnotized Minds, a route widely considered the first V16 in climbing history. 21-year-old Woods began working on the problem in early 2010, although a busy schedule of competitions and climbing trips only allowed him 2 days to work on the problem. He returned in October of the same year, and after 6 more days on the problem, he made his first V16 ascent on the 21st of October 2010. Although Woods originally graded the boulder a V15, the problem was repeated by Rustam Gelmanov 6 years later, who suggested Woods had under-graded the problem. Since this ascent, Woods has gone on to claim several first ascents of iconic V16 boulders, including The ProcessCreature From the Black Lagoon and Box Therapy

Of all his bouldering achievements, it’s his ascent of Return of the Sleepwalker that marks the pinnacle of Daniel Wood’s climbing career. The sit start, 16 moves extension of Jimmy Webb’s Sleepwalker (V16) became a project for Woods in November 2020. After almost 3 months of climbing nothing other than this problem, the line became the longest project of his career, far exceeding his previous longest time on a project of 15 days. 

Daniel on Return of the Sleepwalker – ©BobbySorich

Daniel sent the problem on the 2nd of April 2021, giving the problem the name Return of Sleepwalker and the elusive grade of V17. This, Nalle Hukkataival’s Burden of Dreams, Alphane and Megatron are the only problems to receive this grade.

Although Woods is best known for his bouldering achievements, he’s also an accomplished sport climber too with ascents of La Capella (5.15b/9b)Papichulo (5.15a/9a+), and Thor’s Hammer (5.15a/9a+). He also dabbled with Biographie, but has not managed to clip the chains yet.

Daniel Trying Biographie – ©LenaDrapella

Tattoos

Daniel’s unusual collection of tattoos has become a topic of interest for many climbers. 

The first to appear was a tribal lion on the right side of his torso in 2014. Although it’s unclear what the origins of the tattoo are, it is possibly one he picked up on an early trip to South Africa. The tattoo got touched up and some extra additions in 2017.

Shortly after, a large spider on the left side of his abdomen quickly joined the Woods’ tattoo collection. Spiders are clearly a topic of interest to Woods, who has shared some on his Instagram page over the years. The tattoo took 7 hours to complete and was done by artist and fellow climber Hunter Damiani. A year later, Daniel requested Hunter to add a large skull to his collection that would encapsulate the spider tattoo. This took 3 sessions to complete.

Next game his neck tattoo in June 2019. The eye was done by Tyson Taumaoe, an artist out of Las Vegas. Less than 6 months later, Daniel then got a hand tattoo of a grim reaper, which is thought to represent his iconic ascent of Hypnotized Minds. 

The latest tattoo was a snake, sitting below the Lion on the right side of his abdomen. It is thought that this is meant to represent the year of the snake, which includes 1989, the year Woods was born.

Daniel Woods Tattoos
Daniel Woods on Fight Club V14/8B+ showing off his ink ©MattHong

FAQs

Video Library

Sam Laird

Quite likely the only idiot currently hauling a 70-meter rope and four pairs of climbing shoes around the world. Sam lives for backpacking, adventure, and of course, climbing. If he's not exploring crags and getting shut down on new projects, you can find him sharing his passion for climbing in publications such as Climbing Shoe Review, Climbing.com, Gear Junkie, and UK Climbing.

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