Ascent Log
Climb | Type | Suggested Grade | Date of Ascent | Notes |
---|---|---|---|---|
New Base Line | Boulder | V14/8B+ | July 2014 | Shauna is a part of a handful of women to have ever climbed a V14. Climbing Magazine |
Nothin’ But Sunshine | Boulder | V13/8B | June 2013 | Video |
A Bigger Belly | Boulder | V13/8B | Sep 2013 | Shauna said that this was one of the hardest climbs she’s done. |
One Summer in Paradise | Boulder | V13/8B | July 2014 | UKC Article |
Merlin’s Beard | Boulder | V13/8B | 21st Sep 2019 | Instagram Post |
Flip Flopera | Boulder | V13/8B | May 2023 | Instagram Post |
Hydro | Boulder | V13/8B | June 2023 | |
Pilgrim | Boulder | V12/8B+ | June 2011 | Shauna was 18 when she made the ascent of Pilgrim. Video |
Riddles in the Park | Boulder | V12/8B+ | June 2012 | Video |
Mind Matters | Boulder | V12/8B+ | June 2012 | Video |
In Hell | Boulder | V12/8B+ | 12th July 2012 | UK Bouldering Article |
Zoo York | Boulder | V11/8A | 16th Jan2012 | |
Tourniquet | Boulder | V11/8A | 25th Feb 2023 | Instagram Post |
Raindogs | Sport Route | 8a | March 2009 | Shauna did the route when she was 16. |
Watermark | Sport Route | 8a | March 2009 | UKC Article |
Renegade Master | Trad | E8 | Nov 2017 | She did this Trad route on her 3rd try. |
Kit Bag
Climbing Career
Learning the Ropes
Shauna was born on the 27th January 1993 in Runcorn, Cheshire. Unlike many climbers out there who have a background in climbing, no one in Shauna’s family climbed. In fact, neither one of her five half brothers and sisters do any sports, and neither do her parents.
Who inspired little Shauna to take up climbing? The legendary Catherine Destivelle. She appeared on TV when Shauna was aged 4 and at that moment she knew she was destined to be a world-class climber. Her father took her to her local climbing gym, and after much persuasion to let her climb (she was not tall enough to be allowed to climb by the gym), her local gym gave in and allowed her to start using the climbing gym.
Although Catherine Destivelle played a huge role in inspiring Shauna, she was already a very active kid. She would swing off ropes and climb trees. From a very young age, she had the ability to assess risk, something which her father, and IT consultant, instilled in her.
Competition Climbing
From the tender age of 7, Shauna set her sights on climbing stardom and swiftly ascended through the ranks of the competitive circuit. And boy, did she leave her mark! She’s become an unstoppable force, clinching victory after victory and dominating the British Bouldering Championship with an unbeatable winning streak.
In 2016, she took her awe-inspiring talents to the global stage and snatched the Women’s Bouldering title at the prestigious IFSC World Cup. While celebrating her monumental World Cup win, she received an MBE from the Queen as part of the Birthday Honours list. Pretty cool, right?
In the following year, she blazed through the stages in Meiringen, Kazo, Mumbai, and Vail, leaving her competitors in the dust and securing yet another Boulder World Cup title. And if that wasn’t enough, she also snatched a bronze medal in the Combined category.
And let’s not forget her incredible performance at the 2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships in Hachioji, Japan. Shauna struck gold again, winning not just one, but two bronze medals in Bouldering and the Combined event.
During those Championships, Shauna set a blistering British women’s speed climbing record of 9.141 seconds. And as if that wasn’t impressive enough, her outstanding performance in the Combined event secured her a spot in the highly coveted 2020 Olympics.
Tokyo Olympics
Earning a spot in the Olympics required an immense amount of dedication and perseverance for Shauna Coxsey. It wasn’t an easy road by any means. She faced years of arduous training, endured injuries and subsequent surgeries, and even had to navigate the challenges of rehabilitating herself during lockdowns.
In addition, a back injury further complicated her journey. As a result, she wasn’t in her optimal physical condition for the Games and ultimately finished in 10th place out of the 20 qualified women.
The path leading up to the Olympics was far from smooth sailing, and there were undoubtedly moments that tested her resolve. However, Shauna’s unwavering determination to reach her goal was the driving force that propelled her forward. The fact that she made it to the Olympics itself is an extraordinary accomplishment, considering the obstacles she had to overcome.
Pregnancy
In 2021, after the Olympics, Shauna announced her pregnancy with little Frankie. She found herself dealing with negative comments and bullying from people who believed she should stop climbing. But Shauna, being the fearless and strong-willed athlete she is, refused to let the naysayers dim her shine.
In an interview with The Guardian, Shauna candidly discussed the hardships she encountered as a pregnant climber. She expressed her firm belief that being a pregnant woman shouldn’t restrict her choices or dampen her passion for climbing. Shauna was determined to make her own decisions and embrace her pregnancy while continuing to pursue her athletic aspirations.
Throughout this journey, Shauna’s husband, Ned Feehally, played a crucial role in supporting her. He stood by her side, providing encouragement and understanding. Together, they navigated the complexities of climbing and pregnancy, facing the challenges head-on as a united team. She also worked with a specialist women’s health physiotherapist throughout her pregnancy.
In an interview with the Olympics, she stated. “I can’t imagine stopping if I didn’t need to and I haven’t needed to and it feels great. I’ve been really fortunate.”
Despite the hurdles she faced, Shauna’s resilience shone through. She approached her pregnancy with an unwavering determination to stay true to herself, remaining an empowered woman who refused to conform to societal expectations.
Shauna’s story serves as an inspiration to all women, showing that it’s possible to pursue your dreams and passions even while experiencing the joys and challenges of motherhood. She shattered stereotypes and defied societal norms, reminding us that women have the power to make choices that align with their own aspirations and desires.
Noteworthy Ascents
Despite being a gym bum, Shauna has had some very impressive outdoor feats and is considered one of the best female boulderers in the world. In 2014, she became the third woman in the world to climb a V14 (8B+), topping out New Baseline in Switzerland. She has also bagged a number of V13 boulders too.
She is a lover of the outdoors, taking regular trips around the UK and finding hard boulders. She is also a regular in Fontaineblue.