Climber	Suggested Grade	Date	Notes
Wolfgang Güllich	9a/5.14d	14th Sep 1991	FA of the first 9a route in the world. Wolfgang climbed it in 11 days with specific finger training and campus boarding.
Alexander Adler	9a/5.14d	9th Sep 1995	Video
Iker Pou	9a/5.14d	7th Jun 2000	Video
Dave Graham	9a/5.14d	21st May 2001	Dave took 7 days over the course of a month to make the fourth ascent. Planet Mountain
Christian Bindhammer	9a/5.14d	14th May 2003	UKC Article
Richard Simpson	9a/5.14d	13th Oct 2005	There are doubts on whether he climbed the route or not. When asked about it, he was unable to say who belayed him or whether there was witnesses. Instagram Post
Dai Koyamada	9a/5.14d	15th Oct 2005	Video
Markus Bock	9a/5.14d	22nd Oct 2005	UKC Article
Kilian Fischhuber	9a/5.14d	25th Sep 2006	Planet Mountain
Adam Ondra	9a/5.14d	19th May 2008	Video
Patxi Usobiaga	9a/5.14d	24th Oct 2008	Instagram Post
Gabriele Moroni	9a/5.14d	17th Apr 2010	Video
Jan Hojer	9a/5.14d	22nd May 2010	Video
Adam Pustelnik	9a/5.14d	10th Oct 2010	Video
Felix Knaub	9a/5.14d	Oct 2011	UKC Article
Rustam Gelmanov	9a/5.14d	26th Mar 2012	Video
Alexander Megos	9a/5.14d	3rd May 2014	Megos climbed the route in just two hours!
Felix Neumärker	9a/5.14d	16th May 2015	Planet Mountain Interview
Julius Westphal	9a/5.14d	25th Jun 2015	8a Article
Stefano Carnati	9a/5.14d	14th Jun 2016	Video
David Firnenburg	9a/5.14d	Nov 2016	Video
Stephan Vogt	9a/5.14d	2017	Video
Simon Lorenzi	9a/5.14d	2017	Video
Said Belhaj	9a/5.14d	2018	Hannes Huch accused Belhaj of lying about his ascent of Action Directe. Instagram Post
Stefan Scarperi	9a/5.14d	2nd Nov 2018	Video
Adrian Chmiała	9a/5.14d	5th May 2019	Instagram Post
Mélissa Le Nevé	9a/5.14d	21st May 2020	The first and currently only female ascent of Action Directe. Video
Phillip Gaßner	9a/5.14d	May 2021	Video
Buster Martin	9a/5.14d	4th Oct 2022	Video
Dylan Chuat	9a/5.14d	21st Apr 2023	Instagram Post
Vojtěch Trojan	9a/5.14d	May 2023	8a Article
Stefano Ghisolfi	9a/5.14d	5th Nov 2023	Planet Mountain

The Route

Milan Sykora, a renowned German climber, first stumbled upon Action Directe in the 80s. At the time, Sykora was already known for bolting and pioneering challenging climbs. With Action Directe, he bolted the route and traversed it from the right to complete the top moves. However, he found the lower part of the climb seemingly impossible. That was until he considered his friend, Wolfgang Gullich, and invited him to attempt it directly from the base.

This led to the christening of the route as “Directe”. Gullich also noted that the name referenced a French revolutionary group active in 1979, known as Action Directe, notorious for their attacks and assassinations.

As one of the most iconic routes in the world, it is truly distinctive. It’s steep and compact, featuring only 15 metres of climbing and 5 bolts, yet it demands significant skill and power. The climb begins with a mono pocket dyno to a 2-finger pocket at a 45-degree angle, leading to strenuous pocket-pulling sequences to reach the finish. The first ascent comprised a sequence of 16 moves. Nowadays, climbers tend to opt for a more efficient, direct route, completing the climb in just 11-13 moves to the anchor.

Wolfgang Gullich – The Man That Made History

In the annals of climbing history, Wolfgang Gullich occupies a place of remarkable distinction, not only as the first individual to ascend Action Directe, but also as the originator of the precise training method that made such iconic moves possible.

A tribute to his ingenuity and perseverance, the campus board, was birthed from Gullich’s dedication to mono-dynos, a testament to his unyielding pursuit of physical strength and climbing finesse. It was this relentless dedication to training that saw him complete the climb in just 11 days from the onset of his attempt. On the memorable day of September 14, 1991, Gullich achieved what was then a world-first 9a climb.

This monumental ascent would only be replicated four years later, and since then, the climb has seen dozens of successful attempts, although one of which is subject to debate – a fascinating story revolving around Said Belhaj.

Other Ascents

Among these repeat ascents, some have been especially awe-inspiring. Among them, the ascent by Adam Ondra at a young age of 15 stands out, as does the astonishing completion by Alex Megos in less than two hours. Yet, rising above them all, a particular ascent holds a unique place of honor.

In May 2020, Melissa Le Neve made climbing history by becoming the first woman to conquer Action Directe. This incredible achievement is notable due to the climb’s characteristics, which are typically associated with powerful, traditionally ‘masculine’ climbing techniques. Both height and raw strength play crucial roles in this ascent.

Le Neve, the French climber, embraced this formidable challenge as her long-term project. She trained specifically for the climb and returned to Frankenjura persistently over 6 years until she finally achieved her breathtaking send. Her words encapsulate the euphoria and profound emotion of her triumph: “I was hoping this moment wiIl arrive for ages. Never I would have imagined how emotional it would be to clip the anchor. I totally fell in love with the process, to solve the puzzle and unlock this jump”.

This extraordinary narrative of achievement, both by Gullich and those who followed his path, serves as a testimony to human potential and the power of dedication. May the legacy of Wolfgang Gullich continue to inspire future generations of climbers.