Ascent Log
Climber | Suggested Grade | Date of Ascent | Notes |
---|---|---|---|
Jan Hojer | 8C/V15 (Soft) | 8th Dec 2013 | Vimeo video |
Guillaume Glairon-Mondet | 8C/V15 (Soft) | 21st Jan 2014 | Vimeo video |
Iker Arroitajauregi | 8C/V15 | 2nd Mar 2014 | Vimeo video |
Jimmy Webb | 8B+/V14 | 11th May 2014 | Featured in Out of Sight II |
Ned Feehally | 8B+/V14 | 24th Feb 2015 | |
Niccolò Ceria | 8B+/V14 (Soft) | 5th Apr 2015 | Blog post |
Kevin Lopata | 8C/V15 | 3rd Feb 2016 | Facebook Post |
James Noble | 8B+/V14 | 30th Oct 2016 | |
Alban Levier | 8C/V15 | 9th Dec 2016 | Facebook video |
Giuliano Cameroni | 8B/V13 | 31st Dec 2016 | Sent in 2 attempts |
Pascal Gagneux | – | 18th Feb 2017 | |
Nalle Hukkataival | 8B+/8C – V14/V15 | 16th Mar 2017 | Facebook post |
Luis Gerhardt | 8B+/V14 (Soft) | 7th May 2017 | Vimeo video |
Lucien Martinez | 8A+/V12 | 23rd Oct 2017 | |
Ryohei Kameyama | 8C/V15 | 3rd Nov 2017 | YouTube Video |
Nicolas Pelorson | 8A+/8B – V12/V13 | 12th Dec 2017 | YouTube video |
Rob Denayer | 8B+/V14 | 19th May 2019 | Facebook video |
Thijs van Delden | 7th Jan 2020 | YouTube video |
Climb Profile
The Route
Sharing the opening four moves with Mécanique Elèmentaire (8B+), Jour de Chasse was claimed by Jan Hojer in December 2013 and takes the most obvious line directly up the center of the boulder.
Like Mécanique Elèmentaire, the problem starts on a crimp rail with a dynamic reach to a large sloppy pocket. The climber then requires traversing out to another large pocket before reaching a sloper on the lip of the boulder, the crux of the problem requiring strong body tension to complete the sequence. It then tops out with a final four moves of sloping open hand features before topping out.
When Jan made the first ascent of the problem in 2013, he used a more dynamic beta for the first move, requiring him to stop his swing on the first sloping pocket with one arm. Since then, repeaters have found a significantly easier starting beta, opting to use a high left heel hook which removes the need for the powerful dynamic move to the pocket.
Since Hojer’s first ascent, the problem has received over a dozen repeats, becoming a Fontainebleau test piece for the bouldering elite, with repeats from big-name boulders like Jimmy Webb, Nalle Hukkataival, and Giuliano Cameroni.
Personal suggestions generally put the grade in the 8B-8C area, with some climbers making light work of the problem, including Webb, who claimed an ascent after 15 minutes.