Jour de Chasse
FIRST ASCENT: Jan Hojer
A 12-move problem consisting of large pockets, crimps and slopers, on the sandstone Opium boulder in Fontainebleau.
Image by Vast Motion Pictures/MAMMUT
Table of Contents
Jour de Chasse Bio
Sharing the opening four moves with Mécanique elèmentaire (8B+), Jour de Chasse was claimed by Jan Hojer in December 2013 and takes the most obvious line directly up the centre of the boulder.
Like Mécanique elèmentaire, the problem starts on a crimp rail with a dynamic reach to a large sloppy pocket. The climber then requires traversing out to another large pocket before reaching a sloper on the lip of the boulder, the crux of the problem requiring strong body tension to complete the sequence. It then tops out with a final four moves of sloping open hand features before topping out.
When Jan made the first ascent of the problem in 2013, he used a more dynamic beta for the first move, requiring him to stop his swing on the first sloping pocket with one arm. Since then, repeaters have found a significantly easier starting beta, opting to use a high left heel hook which removes the need for the powerful dynamic move to the pocket.
Since Hojer’s first ascent, the problem has received over a dozen repeats, becoming a Fontainebleau test-piece for the bouldering elite, with repeats from big-name boulders like Jimmy Webb, Nalle Hukkataival, and Giuliano Cameroni.
Personal suggestions generally put the suggested grade in the 8B-8C area, with some climbers making light work of the problem, including Webb, who claimed an ascent after 15 minutes.
|Date of Ascent||Climber||Suggested Grade||Notes|
|2013-12-08||Jan Hojer||8C (Soft)||Vimeo video|
|2014-01-21||Guillaume Glairon-Mondet||8C (Soft)||Vimeo video|
|2014-03-02||Iker Arroitajauregi||8C||Vimeo video|
|2014-05-11||Jimmy Webb||8B+||Featured in Out of Sight II|
|2015-04-05||Niccolò Ceria||8B+ (Soft)||Blog post|
|2016-02-03||Kevin Lopata||8C||Facebook Post|
|2016-12-09||Alban Levier||8C||Facebook video|
|2016-12-31||Giuliano Cameroni||8B||Sent in 2 attempts|
|2017-03-16||Nalle Hukkataival||8B+/8C||Facebook post|
|2017-05-07||Luis Gerhardt||8B+ (Soft)||Vimeo video|
|2017-11-03||Ryohei Kameyama||8C||YouTube Video|
|2017-12-12||Nicolas Pelorson||8A+/8B||YouTube video|
|2019-05-19||Rob Denayer||8B+||Facebook video|
|2020-01-07||Thijs van Delden||YouTube video|