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Jour de Chasse

Jour de Chasse. A 12-move problem consisting of large pockets, crimps and slopers, on the sandstone Opium bouldering world in Fontainebleau.








12 Moves

First Ascent

Jan Hojer

Date of FA


Jour de Chasse

Ascent Log

ClimberSuggested GradeDate of AscentNotes
Jan Hojer8C/V15 (Soft)8th Dec 2013Vimeo video
Guillaume Glairon-Mondet8C/V15 (Soft)21st Jan 2014Vimeo video
Iker Arroitajauregi8C/V152nd Mar 2014Vimeo video
Jimmy Webb8B+/V1411th May 2014Featured in Out of Sight II
Ned Feehally8B+/V1424th Feb 2015
Niccolò Ceria8B+/V14 (Soft)5th Apr 2015Blog post
Kevin Lopata8C/V153rd Feb 2016Facebook Post
James Noble8B+/V1430th Oct 2016
Alban Levier8C/V159th Dec 2016Facebook video
Giuliano Cameroni8B/V1331st Dec 2016Sent in 2 attempts
Pascal Gagneux18th Feb 2017
Nalle Hukkataival8B+/8C – V14/V1516th Mar 2017Facebook post
Luis Gerhardt8B+/V14 (Soft)7th May 2017Vimeo video
Lucien Martinez8A+/V1223rd Oct 2017
Ryohei Kameyama8C/V153rd Nov 2017YouTube Video
Nicolas Pelorson8A+/8B – V12/V1312th Dec 2017YouTube video
Rob Denayer8B+/V1419th May 2019Facebook video
Thijs van Delden7th Jan 2020YouTube video

Climb Profile

The Route

Sharing the opening four moves with Mécanique Elèmentaire (8B+),  Jour de Chasse was claimed by Jan Hojer in December 2013 and takes the most obvious line directly up the center of the boulder. 

Like Mécanique Elèmentaire, the problem starts on a crimp rail with a dynamic reach to a large sloppy pocket. The climber then requires traversing out to another large pocket before reaching a sloper on the lip of the boulder, the crux of the problem requiring strong body tension to complete the sequence. It then tops out with a final four moves of sloping open hand features before topping out.

jour de chasse Fontainebleau

When Jan made the first ascent of the problem in 2013, he used a more dynamic beta for the first move, requiring him to stop his swing on the first sloping pocket with one arm. Since then, repeaters have found a significantly easier starting beta, opting to use a high left heel hook which removes the need for the powerful dynamic move to the pocket.

Since Hojer’s first ascent, the problem has received over a dozen repeats, becoming a Fontainebleau test piece for the bouldering elite, with repeats from big-name boulders like Jimmy Webb, Nalle Hukkataival, and Giuliano Cameroni. 

Personal suggestions generally put the grade in the 8B-8C area, with some climbers making light work of the problem, including Webb, who claimed an ascent after 15 minutes.

Nalle ©Fabian Buhl

Video Library


Meet Angel, a former desk-jockey turned global wanderer. After catching a severe case of the climbing (and travel) bug, she's now a world traveller, living the dirtbag dream. Highballs? Too mainstream for her taste. She's all about the thrills of lowballs, where the real action happens. Nowadays, you'll find her in Thailand, either precariously balanced on a granite slab or trading stories with Nemo and his buddies underwater!

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