Help grow the archive! drop a knowledge bomb here.

Super Crackinette

A route full of historical importance, Super Crackinette is a 9a+ climb that even our generation’s strongest athletes couldn’t downgrade. Super Crackinette is a short 20-meter sport climb bolted by Quentin Chastagnier in the Pranania sector of St-Légere du Ventoux, France. The name comes from the neighboring route Crackinette with which it shares a crux, making it a super strong and sustained climb.


Sport Climb






20m (65ft)

First Ascent

Alex Megos

Date of FA


Super Crackinette

Ascent Log

ClimberSuggested GradeDate of AscentNotes
Alex Megos9a+/5.15aOct 2016It took Alex three days to complete the route UKC Article
Adam Ondra9a+/5.15a10th Feb 2018This was the hardest flash in climbing history. Video
Julia Chanourdie9a+/5.15a13th Mar 2020It took Julia 17 days to complete the route. She became the fourth woman to climb 9a+. Video
Sébastien Berthe9a+/5.15aNov 2020This was Berthe’s first 9a+ Instagram Post
Cédric Lachat9a+/5.15aDec 2020This marked his sixth 9a+. Planet Mountain
Nico Pelorson9a+/5.15aFeb 2022Article Post
Nolwen Berthier9a+/5.15a19th Apr 2022Nolwen became the second woman to climb this route. Instagram Post and Video
Tanguy Merad9a+/5.15a18th Feb 2023Instagram Post
Jules Marchland9a+/5.15a4th Apr 2023Instagram Post

Climb Profile

The Route

Born from the imagination of Quentin Chastagnier, Super Crackinette has gained popularity fast because of Alex Megos’s first ascent, after only three days of work. The route was inspired by Laurent Triay’s “Crackinette”, a short bouldery sport route first climbed by Gérôme Pouvreau and graded 8b+/c.

Super Crackinette climb
Super Crackinette in all its glory in the Pranania sector (climber: Julia Chanourdie) ©Mélanie Cannac

Super Crackinette became a possible route after Chastagnier saw a start from the sloped area, afterward meeting with the “original” route crux, making it the hardest climb in St. Legere. Alex Megos first climbed Super Crackinette in October 2016 without telling anyone and without a specific date. In true Megos fashion, he casually climbed Super Crackinette in three days after he had just sent two 8c+ routes.

“It took me three days and I think it’s 9a+. About the sends in the East face, I did l’Enfumette but I think it’s 8c+ (originally graded 9a by the man who did the first ascent Kevin Aglaé). Took me 4 tries. I did as well Concept Extension, 8c+.”

As Gerome Povreau describes Super Crackinette, it is a short route that requires a lot of endurance. It consists of around 30 high-intensity moves, which include mono holds, long hard reaches, and a lack of resting spots, keeping you pumped the whole time.

The supposed crux, because after the third bolt it’s considered a sustained hard climb, begins with a mono middle finger, followed by a few moves around crimps and small pockets, trying to find some decent foot holds after a long reach to a safe hold, which marks the beginning of the last section.

Nolwen Berthier on Super Crackinette
Nolwen becomes the second woman to climb Super Crackinette ©antonin.rhodes

After Megos’s success, Super Crackinette sparked the imagination of other climbers, becoming one of Adam Ondra’s dreams that came true: to be the first climber to onsight a 9a+. also followed by Julia Chanourdie, who became not only the first woman to climb this route but also the fourth woman in history (up until 2020) to climb a 9a+.

Wall of Glory


First Ascent: Alex Megos

October 2016

After only a few days of work, German climber Alex Megos sent his fourth 9a+ in October 2016. Megos sent L’enfumette and Concept Extension during a brief visit to St. Legere, which was quickly followed by Super Crackinette. As a result, he was able to complete Quentin Chastagnier’s long-standing project.

Despite the significance of the send, the German climber kept it low-key and off social media for a while. As he stated for UKC, the old-school style of Ventoux climbing with small pinches and edges suits him well.

Second Ascent: Adam Ondra

10th Feb 2018

Adam Ondra arrived in Saint-Legere du Ventoux at the beginning of February with a crazy plan: to send the world’s first 9a+ flash. So, on February 10th, the Czech crusher realized his dream by climbing not only onsight but also flash Super Crackinette 9a+, setting a world record and raising the stakes for future climbers.

Ondra finished the route after the original bolter, Quentin Chastagner set the quickdraws and gave him the beta to fulfill his dream.

Making it look so easy, Ondra said in his Reel Rock video that “it was 95% just as I visualized it. The holds felt just the same. That’s a great feeling, like being up there for the first time ever while having the feeling you have already climbed it many times before. It felt like nothing could really stop me, I just kept going. And the dream was done!”

After sending it, in the same interview, showing a huge grin on his face, he stated, “When I started climbing, my mental mode was not so good. I thought it was all of a sudden so humid, but I don’t know. I started climbing, and I clipped the third bolt, and then the hard part should start, but it felt so easy! And I kept climbing, and it still felt so easy; I was feeling like an alien! Everything was just as I visualized; it was perfect!

That’s what it’s like to love the sport and want to send first try every route. The pure joy and burst of happiness that comes with hitting the top chain is truly magical, almost intoxicating.

Adam Odra flashing Super Crackinette
Adam Ondra making history once again by climbing the world’s hardest flash ©Bernardo Gimenez

Third Ascent: Julia Chanourdie

13th Mar 2020

Julia Chanourdie, the 23-year-old French climber, redpointed Super Crackinette on the lucky day of March 13, 2020. With a couple of previous 9a ascents under her belt, Chanourdie upped the ante by completing her first 9a+ route, becoming the fourth woman in history to do so.

In an interview for Planet Mountain, Julia explained her 17-day quest and the difficulties she encountered in resolving this climb.

“I’ve first tried it in mid-January, during a pretty cold period and I felt good really soon on the moves and quickly started making some serious redpoint attempts. There are two hard cruxes on this route. The first is revolves around pulling on some tiny little crimps with a really long reach to get a mono, and after falling off that move many many times there’s still the second crux. It’s supposed to be kind of a “dyno” but there’s also some different beta. This uses some tiny crimps where finger strength is key, but it suits me better. Nevertheless up there I took a lot of falls, but if I’m honest with myself I suppose this was more due to the huge mental battle rather than the physical one ;-)”

Julia’s ascent was followed two years later by Nowlen Berthier who became the second woman in history to successfully climb Super Crackinette.

Julia Chanourdie on super crackinette
Julia ecstatic after successfully climbing Super Crackinette and becoming the 4th woman in history to climb a 9a+ ©jocelynchavy

Other Ascents


After a successful summer of multi-pitch projects and a 9a (Speed Integral in Voralpsee) not long before Super Crackinette, Belgian climber Seb Berthe sent his first 9a+, joining the elite few who redpointed it.

Berthe finished Super Crackinette after a month-long struggle with mental blockages and doubt on November 16th, just a few months after Julia Chandourie’s climb.

Seb Berthe on super crackinette
Seb making his way up his first 9a+ route ©julia.cassou

In his interview for Planet Mountain, he told us everything about the struggles and obstacles he went through, including a “healthy” dose of COVID that put his climbing on hold for a couple of weeks.

After a long and tiring summer of multi-pitch climbing with David Leduc in the Dolomites and with Nico Favresse across the Alps and with my father on the Voie Petit on Grand Capucin, I returned to Belgium with the one and only idea in mind: sending this route. I spent the whole of September training hard, for I had an appointment with the route and good conditions at the start of October. Unfortunately though I caught COVID and was KO for two weeks…”

Video Library


Born and raised in Jiu Valley, Romania, I am a true mountain enthusiast, absorbing knowledge from each sport the area offers. Snowboarder in the winter and a hiker and climber in the summer, I love spending my days up in the Carpathians. I have had a passion for writing ever since I laid my hands on my first keyboard, and I always have a curiosity for gear and great stories. I split my time between various jobs and hobbies, including being a full-time psychologist, repairing skis in the winter, and working with kids at my local gym whenever I have time.

Midnight Lightning
The Nose

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Scroll to Top