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The Story Of Two Worlds

An iconic line put up by Dave Graham on the Dreamtime boulder in Cresciano, Switzerland. The name is a reference to the grading inflation of boulder problems that was widespread at the time with Graham labeling the line ‘“new standard for 8C”.

Discipline

Bouldering

Location

Switzerland

Grade

V15/8C

Height

21 Moves

First Ascent

Dave Graham

Date of FA

01/05/2005

The Story Of Two Worlds

Ascent Log

ClimberSuggested GradeDateNotes
David Graham8C/V155th Jan 2005
Dai Koyamada8C/V1512th May 2010Original and low start (8C+ on 22nd March 2012)
Paul Robinson8C/V158th Mar 2011YouTube Video
Jernej Kruder8C/V151st Apr 2013YouTube Video
Carlo Traversi8C/V1525th Mar 2013Featured in ‘Heritage’
Giuliano Cameroni8C/V159th Feb 2014Vimeo
Gabriele Moroni8C/V1518th Feb 20145 (+3) days
Toru Nakajima8C/V1512th Mar 2014
James Webb8C/V1525th Mar 2014Instagram Post
Jan Hojer8C/V1511th Apr 20146 days over 1 year
Samuel Ometz8C/V15 (Soft)27th Dec 2014
Martin Stráník8C/V15 (Soft)17th Nov 20155 Days
Alex Khazanov8C/V15 (Soft)3rd Jan 2018Instagram Post
Paweł Jelonek8C/V1528th Jan 2018Facebook Video
Christof Rauch8C/V1528th Jan 2018YouTube Video
Sebastian Cotting8B+/V1430th Jan 201880 sessions over 3.5 years. YouTube Video
Max Räuber8C/V1514th Feb 2019YouTube Video
Martin Keller8C/V1527th Feb 2019Instagram Post
Keenan Takahashi8C/V1512th Apr 2019YouTube Video
Ryuichi Murai8C/V1530th Nov 2019Instagram Post
Niky Ceria8C/V1525th Oct 2020Instagram Post
Alex Megos8C/V1523rd Dec 2020Instagram Post
Emil Abrahamsson8C/V1520th Jan 2023Video

Climb Profile

The Route

Like a lot of iconic ascents, The Story of Two Worlds (TSOTW) is a boulder problem shrouded in controversy. 

The route itself is a V15/8C, 21-move problem on the Dreamtime boulder, found in the popular bouldering area of Cresciano, Switzerland. The Story of Two Worlds is a sit-start extension, linking up 7 extremely crimpy V13/14 moves into Toni Lamprecht’s The Dagger (V14). It was the first confirmed 8C, after Fred Nicole’s Dreamtime problem (on the other side of the same boulder) had been downgraded to V14/8B+ in the years after his first ascent. 

Wall of Glory

First Ascent: Dave Graham

5th Jan 2005

The Story of Two Worlds was put up by Dave Graham in January 2005, which he proclaimed as the “new standard for 8C” following the downgrading of Nicole’s Dreamtime.

Graham’s problem has since gone on to become one of the most repeated V15 in the world, having seen over 16 repeats in the last decade. 

David on SOTW

Second Ascent: Dai Koyamada

12th May 2010

The first repeat came five years after Graham’s first ascent, with Dai Koyamada bagging the repeat in May 2010. Koyamada’s ascent quickly became a highly debated topic after some of the online climbing community suggested that Dai had inadvertently started the sit start using the wrong holds. Even to this day, Dai’s 2010 ascent is still heavily debated, with some believing it did not count as an official ascent. 

On the other hand, footage released of Graham working the problem prior to bagging the FA, indicated that Dai perhaps did use the correct starting holds after all. Graham himself even suggested that Dai’s 2010 attempt was a legitimate ascent of the problem, as did Carlo Taversi, who claimed the fourth repeat of the problem. 

Nevertheless, the controversy surrounding this ascent was enough to provoke Dai to revisit the problem, this time opting to make a repeat from an even lower starting position than Graham’s starting position, starting with a match on the undercling and a double toe hook. Dai’s new start is perhaps the most natural starting position for the problem, with the single move addition adding a huge amount of complexity to what already was, one of the most difficult boulder problems in the world. 

Over the next two years, the Japanese boulderer relentlessly worked on the problem, which had become just as much a mental challenge as it was a physical one. Despite returning to the problem several times between 2010 and 2012, on the 22nd March 2012 Dai eventually managed to make an ascent, 5 days into this most recent trip to Switzerland. He suggested that his low start addition brought the grade of the route up to V16.

Dai on SOTW

Third Ascent: Paul Robinson

5th Jan 2005

Paul Robinson

Since Dai’s first repeat in 2010, countless elite bouldering specialists have tested themselves against this iconic problem. 

The line became a major project for Paul Robinson after arriving in Europe in September 2010. It would be six months later in March 2011 when he would eventually claim his repeat. Robinson would have sent it a few days earlier if it wasn’t for an unfortunate dab of a nearby tree on an easy exit move that invalidated the tantalizingly close attempt. He credits his success on the problem to discovering an alternative beta for the final crux, which he states made a huge difference.

Other Ascents

In the years following Robinsons’ ascent, repetitions of The Story of Two Worlds boulder problem have started to be logged thick and fast. 

Perhaps one of the most impressive repetitions came from Alex Megos. It only took the German a total of four days of working on the problem before claiming an ascent. The first two days were spent working on the beta and linking the sequence. Despite the rain on the third day soaking the end section of the problem, Megos made quick work of the bottom section, and came close to a send too, only slipping off three moves from the end. On this fourth and final day, he sent it on his first attempt after a quick warm-up.

Even today, the boulder remains one of the most iconic problem and the benchmark that 8C boulders are measured against.

Video Library

Angel

Meet Angel, a former desk-jockey turned global wanderer. After catching a severe case of the climbing (and travel) bug, she's now a world traveller, living the dirtbag dream. Highballs? Too mainstream for her taste. She's all about the thrills of lowballs, where the real action happens. Nowadays, you'll find her in Thailand, either precariously balanced on a granite slab or trading stories with Nemo and his buddies underwater!

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