Ascent Log
Climber | Suggested Grade | Date | Notes |
---|---|---|---|
David Graham | 8C/V15 | 5th Jan 2005 | |
Dai Koyamada | 8C/V15 | 12th May 2010 | Original and low start (8C+ on 22nd March 2012) |
Paul Robinson | 8C/V15 | 8th Mar 2011 | YouTube Video |
Jernej Kruder | 8C/V15 | 1st Apr 2013 | YouTube Video |
Carlo Traversi | 8C/V15 | 25th Mar 2013 | Featured in ‘Heritage’ |
Giuliano Cameroni | 8C/V15 | 9th Feb 2014 | Vimeo |
Gabriele Moroni | 8C/V15 | 18th Feb 2014 | 5 (+3) days |
Toru Nakajima | 8C/V15 | 12th Mar 2014 | |
James Webb | 8C/V15 | 25th Mar 2014 | Instagram Post |
Jan Hojer | 8C/V15 | 11th Apr 2014 | 6 days over 1 year |
Samuel Ometz | 8C/V15 (Soft) | 27th Dec 2014 | |
Martin Stráník | 8C/V15 (Soft) | 17th Nov 2015 | 5 Days |
Alex Khazanov | 8C/V15 (Soft) | 3rd Jan 2018 | Instagram Post |
Paweł Jelonek | 8C/V15 | 28th Jan 2018 | Facebook Video |
Christof Rauch | 8C/V15 | 28th Jan 2018 | YouTube Video |
Sebastian Cotting | 8B+/V14 | 30th Jan 2018 | 80 sessions over 3.5 years. YouTube Video |
Max Räuber | 8C/V15 | 14th Feb 2019 | YouTube Video |
Martin Keller | 8C/V15 | 27th Feb 2019 | Instagram Post |
Keenan Takahashi | 8C/V15 | 12th Apr 2019 | YouTube Video |
Ryuichi Murai | 8C/V15 | 30th Nov 2019 | Instagram Post |
Niky Ceria | 8C/V15 | 25th Oct 2020 | Instagram Post |
Alex Megos | 8C/V15 | 23rd Dec 2020 | Instagram Post |
Emil Abrahamsson | 8C/V15 | 20th Jan 2023 | Video |
Climb Profile
The Route
Like a lot of iconic ascents, The Story of Two Worlds (TSOTW) is a boulder problem shrouded in controversy.
The route itself is a V15/8C, 21-move problem on the Dreamtime boulder, found in the popular bouldering area of Cresciano, Switzerland. The Story of Two Worlds is a sit-start extension, linking up 7 extremely crimpy V13/14 moves into Toni Lamprecht’s The Dagger (V14). It was the first confirmed 8C, after Fred Nicole’s Dreamtime problem (on the other side of the same boulder) had been downgraded to V14/8B+ in the years after his first ascent.
Wall of Glory
First Ascent: Dave Graham
5th Jan 2005
The Story of Two Worlds was put up by Dave Graham in January 2005, which he proclaimed as the “new standard for 8C” following the downgrading of Nicole’s Dreamtime.
Graham’s problem has since gone on to become one of the most repeated V15 in the world, having seen over 16 repeats in the last decade.
Second Ascent: Dai Koyamada
12th May 2010
The first repeat came five years after Graham’s first ascent, with Dai Koyamada bagging the repeat in May 2010. Koyamada’s ascent quickly became a highly debated topic after some of the online climbing community suggested that Dai had inadvertently started the sit start using the wrong holds. Even to this day, Dai’s 2010 ascent is still heavily debated, with some believing it did not count as an official ascent.
On the other hand, footage released of Graham working the problem prior to bagging the FA, indicated that Dai perhaps did use the correct starting holds after all. Graham himself even suggested that Dai’s 2010 attempt was a legitimate ascent of the problem, as did Carlo Taversi, who claimed the fourth repeat of the problem.
Nevertheless, the controversy surrounding this ascent was enough to provoke Dai to revisit the problem, this time opting to make a repeat from an even lower starting position than Graham’s starting position, starting with a match on the undercling and a double toe hook. Dai’s new start is perhaps the most natural starting position for the problem, with the single move addition adding a huge amount of complexity to what already was, one of the most difficult boulder problems in the world.
Over the next two years, the Japanese boulderer relentlessly worked on the problem, which had become just as much a mental challenge as it was a physical one. Despite returning to the problem several times between 2010 and 2012, on the 22nd March 2012 Dai eventually managed to make an ascent, 5 days into this most recent trip to Switzerland. He suggested that his low start addition brought the grade of the route up to V16.
Third Ascent: Paul Robinson
5th Jan 2005
Since Dai’s first repeat in 2010, countless elite bouldering specialists have tested themselves against this iconic problem.
The line became a major project for Paul Robinson after arriving in Europe in September 2010. It would be six months later in March 2011 when he would eventually claim his repeat. Robinson would have sent it a few days earlier if it wasn’t for an unfortunate dab of a nearby tree on an easy exit move that invalidated the tantalizingly close attempt. He credits his success on the problem to discovering an alternative beta for the final crux, which he states made a huge difference.
Other Ascents
In the years following Robinsons’ ascent, repetitions of The Story of Two Worlds boulder problem have started to be logged thick and fast.
Perhaps one of the most impressive repetitions came from Alex Megos. It only took the German a total of four days of working on the problem before claiming an ascent. The first two days were spent working on the beta and linking the sequence. Despite the rain on the third day soaking the end section of the problem, Megos made quick work of the bottom section, and came close to a send too, only slipping off three moves from the end. On this fourth and final day, he sent it on his first attempt after a quick warm-up.
Even today, the boulder remains one of the most iconic problem and the benchmark that 8C boulders are measured against.