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This V16 boulder in Japan not only has some of the burliest moves you’ve ever seen, it will probably give you a pulley injury just watching the send videos.








5 moves

First Ascent

Ryuichi Murai

Date of FA



Ascent Log

ClimberSuggested GradeDate of AscentNotes
Ryuichi MuraiV16/8C+10th Dec 2021FA. Instagram Post
Florian WientjesV16/8C+17th Oct 2023Instagram Post
Ryohei KameyamaV16/8C+Oct 2023Instagram Post

Climb Profile

The Route

Nestled in the forest of Mizugaki, Japan, lies a boulder that only a few dare to try. Japan is notoriously known for hard bouldering, and Floatin’ is no exception. This is a hard, very hard V16.

Floatin V16

Floatin’ is a 35 degree wall of sheer granite consisting of 5 really really hard moves. Any average Joe like me would lose all their fingers to pulley injuries by walking up to the boulder.

The boulder starts with both feet on the crash pad, left hand on a bad pinch and right hand on a bad crimp. Getting started is the first crux.

From there, you launch yourself to the next move, hence the name ‘Launch Pad Project’. The next move is a left-hand pocket. Once you get your left hand in there, you get a high left foot to an edge (if you can call it that). 

Floatin V16

This is where it gets mad. Instead of continuing up the boulder like a normal person would do, you campus down to a crimp next to the left foot, bring down the left foot and swap it for your left hand – crux 2. Then, the right hand goes back up to the pocket. All this is done while completely campusing (or Floatin’).

From there, it’s easy peasy, just bump up with the left hand to a crimp, left again to a sloper, top out, walk up a slab and you’re done. Sounds easy right?

First Ascent

10th Dec 2021: Ryuichi Murai

Japanese climber Ryuichi Murai made the first ascent of Floatin’ in December 2021. Even though Murai is one of the strongest Japanese climbers out there, the route didn’t come easy for him.

It took him around 10 sessions and a lot of playing around with the beta before making his ascent. His initial beta was to launch himself for the left-hand crimp lower down. He kept missing and quickly realized he needed to try a different way.

Ryuichi Murai on Floatin V16 boulder Japan

At around session 6, he experimented with his new beta where he launches himself from the two bad starting holds to the left-hand pocket.

That beta didn’t exactly come easy either, but once he stuck the move he knew it was only a matter of time before the send. The next cruxy move is transitioning from a high left foot to a downward campus on two small crimps. 

Battling freezing temperatures and bad skin, the FA of Floatin’ is one of Murai’s biggest accomplishments.

Second Ascent

17th Oct 2023: Florian Wientjes

The second ascent came by German climber Florian Wientjes. As soon as he saw the video of the first ascent, he became obsessed with the boulder. Four weeks before his trip out to Mizugaki, Florian focused his training on finger strength, campusing and pull speed.

Florian Wientjes on Floatin V16

The first time he touched the holds they felt a lot worse than he expected, but since he had done a lot of preparation, it didn’t feel impossible.

He spent most of his sessions working the first move, as that was the hardest for him. Instead of campusing up to the left hand pocket like Murai does, Florian found that a pogo for momentum worked better. 

Once he stuck the first move, it was all about piecing it together. On his 5th session, he fell from the easy top out section, mainly because it was wet and slippy. After a 15 minute rest, he went for the send! Overall, it took him 9 days of climbing in Mizugaki before making the second ascent of this epic gnarly boulder.

Third Ascent

Oct 2023: Ryohei Kameyama

Kameyama first tried Floatin’ in November 2022 without any luck. A year later, in October 2023, Kayamada returned with vengeance. Stronger and more experienced, it didn’t take him long before bagging the third ascent. 

ryohei kameyama on Floatin V16

Header image by saruzaemon9

Video Library


Meet Angel, a former desk-jockey turned global wanderer. After catching a severe case of the climbing (and travel) bug, she's now a world traveller, living the dirtbag dream. Highballs? Too mainstream for her taste. She's all about the thrills of lowballs, where the real action happens. Nowadays, you'll find her in Thailand, either precariously balanced on a granite slab or trading stories with Nemo and his buddies underwater!

Too Big To Flail
Bon Voyage

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