Ascent Log
| Climber | Suggested Grade | Date | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Simon Lorenzi | V17/9A | 8th Feb 2021 | Controversially, Lorenzi used a book to widen the span of his kneebar. Video |
| Nico Pelorson | V16/8C+ | 16th Mar 2021 | Although it was one of the most challenging climbs he’s ever done, he felt it didn’t warrant the V17 grade. Video |
| Camille Coudert | V17/9A | 12th Feb 2022 | Having compared it with other V16s, Camille felt it was much harder than anything he’d ever done and agreed with Lorenzi’s initial grade of V17. Video |
Climb Profile
The Route
The Big Island was established by Vincent Pochon a bit over eleven years ago. Since then it has seen around twenty ascents, making it the most repeated V15 in the world. Looking at it, however, it is hard to ignore the obvious lower start which climbs a perfectly sculpted rail into the standard line. This low start would eventually become Soudain Seul.
The beginning section climbs this sloping rail with intricate footwork on small edges, body tension, and kneebars. It adds about 6-7 moves of physical V12 climbing straight into the V15 with no rest.
After this, the climb is almost as strenuous on the lower extremities as it is on the upper– strenuous enough for Jon Glassberg to herniate two discs from the wide double heel hook position on the upper section. Through the top section, you are basically squeezing on slopers with maximum power in both your arms and legs. Needless to say, the climb takes a huge amount of strength from the large muscle groups.
One of the biggest challenges of the sit start is doing the bottom moves efficiently enough that you are not too tired to complete the V15 section. Simon Lorenzi got to the crimp that marks the end of the hardest climbing in less than ten sessions, but it took fifteen more to send the boulder .
Soudain Seul was the third proposed V17 in the world. After Lorenzi’s first ascent, it was subsequently downgraded and then upgraded. This leaves the grade in an ambiguous position. The boulder will need to see more ascents to solidify a number. One thing is for sure though – it’s really hard.
Wall of Glory
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First Ascent: Simon Lorenzi
8th Feb 2021
Simon Lorenzi got the first ascent of Soudain Seul after twenty-five sessions on the boulder (not counting those previously spent on Big Island). He was working it alongside Nico Pelorson and Camille Coudert who would subsequently get the second and third ascents. Lorenzi was hesitant to assign the V17 grade but ultimately decided that although it may be low-end V17, it was a step above V16.
In order to send, Lorenzi had to slide a book under his kneepad to widen the span of his kneebar. He borrowed the book from his girlfriend. It was entitled Soudain Seul or Suddenly Alone, hence the name of the boulder.
Second Ascent: Nico Pelorson
16th Mar 2021
Nico Pelorson also had an extended mental and physical battle with the boulder before sending. He put in months of effort and fully dedicated his indoor training to the climb by focusing on max strength and climbing while tired. Despite this, he suggested the grade of V16, as he theorized that V17 was still a step up from what was within his capabilities.
Third Ascent: Camille Coudert
12th Feb 2022
The third ascent came from French climber Camille Coudert. Camille spent an agonizing 100 tries on the boulder before sending it on the 12th of February 2022. When Camille Coudert sent he concurred with Lorenzi’s original suggested grade of V17, as when he compared it to other boulders in the V15-V16 range, the higher grade seemed far more accurate. Only time and more ascents will either solidify or knock down the V17 grade.
Is a book aid?
Besides the grade debate, there’s also something else unusual about the FA of Suodain Seul. Lorenzi decided to use an unusual tool to help him conquer Soudain Seul – a book, snugly taped inside his kneepad to widen his span.
A few keyboard warriors have called foul play and suggested that using a book in this manner is aid climbing. But if we open that can of worms, where do you draw the line at what classifies as aid tools? After all, aren’t climbing shoes aid? How about kneepads? I’ll let you be the judge.
Video Library
