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Julia Chanourdie

Julia’s climbing journey began at the age of two in her parent’s climbing gym. Fast forward a few years, and Julia is now a professional climber, Olympian, and 9b crusher. With her dad as her coach, Julia has been pushing the limits of what is possible for female climbers.

NATIONALITY

France

Date Of Birth

01/08/1989

Speciality

Bouldering

Hardest Sport

9b/5.15b

Hardest Boulder

-

Hardest Trad

-

Julia Chanourdie

Ascent Log

ClimbTypeSuggested GradeDate of AscentNotes
Eagle-4Sport Route9b (5.15b)7th Nov 2020Video
Super CrackinetteSport Route9a+ (5.15a)13th Mar 2020Video
Cabane au CanadaSport Route9a+ (5.15a)Aug 2018Rock & Ice Article
Ground ZeroSport Route9a+ (5.14d)25th Mar 2017Video
Molasse’sonSport Route9a+ (5.14d)5th April 2018UKC Article

Kit Bag

Climbing Career

Competition Climbing

Julia in her early comp days ©O.Taris

Julia Chanourdie has been climbing competitively since 2010 and has managed to bag a few podiums, in both lead and bouldering. She came first in the European Youth Cup in 2013 and 2015. In 2016 she took gold in the World University Championships in Shanghai, repeating this feat again in Bratislava in 2018. 

The same year, Chanourdie also secured a Lead bronze at the IFSC Wujiang World Cup, her sole World Cup podium. Her achievements continued in 2017, where she grabbed gold in the Arco Rock Master Duel, partnering with Adam Ondra. In the same year, Chanourdie’s indomitable spirit earned her a bronze medal for Women’s Lead at the World Games in Wrocław, Poland. She stood beside silver medalist Janja Garnbret and gold medalist Anak Verhoeven.

Overall, she has taken second and third place in around 15 Championships between 2010 and 2022.

Olympics

Julia in the Chamonix World Cup ©lenadrapella

In 2019, Julia qualified for the Olympics in the combined event in Toulouse. She was one of four representing France in the inauguration of the sport in the Olympics, joining brothers, Mickael and Bassa Mawem and speed specialist Anouck Jaubert.

Unfortunately, Julia didn’t get close to the podium, coming in 16th in the combined event.

Notable Ascents

Julia fighting her way up Eagle-4 ©Imarc_daviet

Julia sent waves through the climbing community when she became the third woman in history to climb a 9b. At that time, Angy Eiter with La Planta de Shiva and Laura Rogora with Ali Hulk Sit Start Extension Total had achieved such a feat. On the 7th November 2020, Julia made history by climbing Eagle 4, in France, first ascended by the one and only Adam Ondra.

After Hugo Parmentier clipped the chains of Eagle-4, Julia was inspired and made it her mission to follow in his footsteps. Sending Eagle-4 was not easy. The crux of the route is at the very start and consists of 15 minutes of very intense climbing. Julia said that that section is a 9b which is then followed by an 8b. Luckily, there are a couple of nice rest spots to take a breather after the long and pumpy first section.

Julia doesn’t usually train for specific routes, but with Eagle-4, she realized pretty quickly that she had to train hard in order to clip the chains of her first 9b. She began sending hard 9a routes in preparation for Eagle-4, such as Sang Neuf (9a). Her plan was to train hard over the summer months and tick off as many 9a’s as she could before returning to Eagle-4 in the Autumn.

Her training both indoors and outdoors paid off as she sent Eagle-4 after trying it for only 10 days in total. This is a memory that will stay with her and climbers around the world forever. 

Video Library

Angel

Meet Angel, a former desk-jockey turned global wanderer. After catching a severe case of the climbing (and travel) bug, she's now a world traveller, living the dirtbag dream. Highballs? Too mainstream for her taste. She's all about the thrills of lowballs, where the real action happens. Nowadays, you'll find her in Thailand, either precariously balanced on a granite slab or trading stories with Nemo and his buddies underwater!

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