Climb	Type	Suggested Grade	Date of Ascent	Notes
La Planta De Shiva	Sport Route	9b	22nd Oct 2017	First Female 9b. Video
Madame Ching	Sport Route	9b	16th Dec 2020	First female 9b FA. Video
Queen Anne’s Revenge	Sport Route	9a+	June 2019	FA. Angela Eiter Blog
Pure Dreaming	Sport Route	9a	June 2019	Gripped Magazine
Era Vella	Sport Route	9a	April 2015	Angela Eiter Blog
Big Hammer	Sport Route	9a	Nov 2014	Angela Eiter Blog
Schatzinsel	Sport Route	9a	Sep 2019	Planet Mountain
Hades	Sport Route	9a	Sep 2014	Video
Zauberfee	Sport Route	8c+/9a	Sep 2014	Video
Fragile Steps	Boulder	8A+/V12	Aug 2014	UKC Article

Learning the Ropes & Competition

Angy Eiter grew up in the small town of Arzl in Pitztal, Austria. She was introduced to climbing at the age of 11 where she tried it out at her school. At the age of 15, she climbed her first indoor 8a (5.13b) and aged 16 she began participating in the World Cup lead climbing.

In 2003 Eiter won her first World Cup lead climb in Aprica, Italy. Her success continued as she went on to win three World Cups in a row from 2004 to 2006, with an impressive track record of winning eight out of nine events in 2005 and seven out of ten events in 2006.

Eiter also won four IFSC World Championships in the lead climbing specialty, including the 2005 edition in Munich, the 2007 edition in Avilés, the 2011 edition in Arco, and the 2012 edition in Paris. In recognition of her achievements, she was awarded the La Sportiva Competition Award in 2006.

An unfortunate shoulder injury meant she had to take some time off, spending nine months rehabilitating. She came back to the World Championship scene a year later looking stronger than ever. 

Notable Ascents

La Planta De Shiva

After Angy crushed Hades 9a (5.14d) in 2014 she was hungry for her next challenge. Angy set her sights on La Planta de Shiva in Andalusia, Spain, and began her two-year-long battle to become the first woman to climb a 9b (5.15a). La Planta de Shiva was first climbed by Adam Ondra in 2011, and repeated by Jakob Schubert in 2016, so for Angela to make the third ascent would be a monumental achievement.

Angy knew from the outset that the climb would be a difficult one. Even after multiple injuries, she remained determined to give it her best shot. She traveled back and forth to Andalusia, even recreating the route in her gym in Imst to train at the same intensity. Angy made her last trip to Andalusia in October 2017, and after three grueling weeks of effort, she finally completed the climb.

In doing so, Angy made history as the first woman ever to climb a 9b. Only two other women have achieved this incredible feat since then. Laura Rogora climbed Ali Hulk sit start extension in July 2020, and Julia Chanourdie conquered Eagle-4 in November 2020.

In an interview with Red Bull, she stated, “When I clipped in the anchor I didn’t really realise that I’d completed such a milestone [achievement]. But after, when I saw all the messages on social media, I really realised what a thing I’d done for the global climbing community.” 

Truly, a remarkable achievement and milestone for all climbers out there.

Madame Ching

Her quest for 9b’s didn’t just end there. In December 2020, she made her second 9b ascend, this time of Madame Ching. Madame Ching is located in Austria, her motherland, and was a relatively unknown route bolted by her husband in 2018.

Angy initially had no interest in attempting the route. However, lockdown in Spring 2020 sparked her motivation to take on this untouched challenge. Her initial attempts on the route proved to be humbling, with each move feeling like a mental blow. Captivated by the untouched nature of the route, the absence of any traces, and the exhilarating challenge of finding holds and executing moves, she soldiered on.

With a structured training plan, Angela focused on strengthening her finger power and meticulously approached the route. Despite challenging moves and unfavorable conditions, she completed the route just before heavy rain fell, achieving an unexpected and ecstatic send.

Reflecting on the grade, Angela compared “Madame Ching” to “La Planta de Shiva.” As the first ascensionist, she relied on her own beta and acknowledged the possibility that taller climbers might find alternative sequences. Regardless of the grade, Angela recognized the significance of first ascents, finding inspiration and joy in sealing this route with the name “Madame Ching.”

Aside from her two 9b’s, she has also climbed six 9a’s, three 8c+’s, five 8c’s and has onsighted an 8b. Her hardest boulder is Fragile Steps (V13) in the Rocklands. 

Angela’s FAQs